917-540-6070
support@urbansupplyinc.com
Mon-Fri: 9AM - 9PM EST
917-540-6070
support@urbansupplyinc.com
Mon-Fri: 9AM - 9PM EST
An electric fireplace buying guide should answer three questions before anything else: how you plan to install it, how much heat you actually need, and how the flame will look in your room. Get those right and the rest — brand, trim kit, remote features — falls into place. At Urban Supply Inc we sell electric fireplaces across every install format and price point, so this guide walks you through sizing, heat output, and the main mounting types the way we'd explain it to a customer standing in the showroom. No hype, just the numbers and trade-offs that matter.
Electric fireplaces have become the fastest, cleanest way to add a real flame effect and supplemental heat to a room. There's no venting, no gas line, no chimney, and no combustion — the unit plugs in (or hardwires) and runs off a heating element and an LED flame display. That simplicity is exactly why choosing one trips people up: with the physical constraints of a gas or wood unit removed, you have more options to weigh.
Every good electric fireplace decision comes down to five variables. Work through them in order and you'll narrow hundreds of models down to a short list quickly.
Install type: Where and how the unit mounts — on the wall, recessed into it, dropped into an existing masonry firebox, framed into new construction, or set inside furniture. This is the single biggest fork in the road, so we cover it in depth below.
Heat output and room size: Electric fireplaces are supplemental "zone" heaters, not central heating. Matching BTU output to your square footage keeps the room comfortable without oversizing.
Electrical supply: Most units are 120V plug-and-play; higher-output models need a dedicated 240V hardwired circuit and an electrician.
Flame realism and viewing area: The reason most people buy electric in the first place. Ember beds, adjustable flame color, and linear "ribbon" flames vary widely by model and brand.
Dimensions and viewing height: Linear units run from roughly 30 inches to 100+ inches wide. Measure your wall opening or furniture cavity before you shop, not after.
This is where an electric fireplace buying guide earns its keep. Four formats cover nearly the entire market, and each suits a different room and level of construction effort.
Wall-mount (surface-mount): The unit hangs on the wall surface like a flat-screen TV, projecting a few inches into the room. It's the easiest install — mount a bracket, hang the fireplace, plug it in. Ideal for renters, retrofits, and anyone who wants a fast upgrade without cutting into the wall. Browse our wall mount electric fireplaces for this style.
Recessed / in-wall: The firebox sits inside the wall cavity so the glass front is nearly flush. It looks more built-in and takes up zero floor or projection space, but you'll open the wall between studs. Many modern linear units are dual-purpose — they can be surface-mounted or recessed depending on how you frame them.
Insert: Designed to drop into an existing masonry or prefab fireplace opening, turning a wood-burning or gas firebox into a clean electric one. If you already have a mantel and hearth, an insert is usually the simplest conversion. See our insert electric fireplaces.
Built-in / linear (framed-in): Purpose-built to be framed into a new or remodeled wall for a seamless, contemporary look. These are the long "ribbon" fireplaces you see under wall-mounted TVs. They demand the most construction — framing, finishing, and often a dedicated circuit — but deliver the highest-end result. Explore built-in electric fireplaces, or for corner and peninsula rooms, our multi-sided electric fireplaces show flame from two or three faces.
| Install Type | Construction Effort | Best For | Wall Cutting Required |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wall-Mount (Surface) | Low — hang and plug in | Renters, quick retrofits, apartments | No |
| Recessed / In-Wall | Medium — open wall cavity | Flush, modern look in existing walls | Yes |
| Insert | Low–Medium — drop into firebox | Converting an existing masonry fireplace | No (uses existing opening) |
| Built-In / Linear | High — framed into new wall | New builds, remodels, high-end feature walls | Yes (new framing) |
Here's the number that anchors this whole electric fireplace buying guide: a standard 1,500-watt heating element produces roughly 5,000 BTUs per hour (1,500 watts converts to about 5,118 BTU/hr). That's the ceiling for any unit running on a normal household 120V outlet, because 1,500 watts is about the most a standard 15-amp circuit will safely carry.
What does 5,000 BTU cover? As supplemental zone heat, a 120V unit comfortably warms a room up to about 400 square feet in a moderate climate. Push into larger, drafty, or poorly insulated spaces and it becomes a nice ambient boost rather than a real heat source. If you want to heat 600–800 square feet or more, you'll want a 240V hardwired model, which roughly doubles output to about 8,900 BTUs per hour and can heat up to roughly 800 square feet.
Some infrared-element units advertise coverage up to about 1,000 square feet while still plugging into 120V, because infrared heats objects and people directly rather than just the air. Treat those top-end coverage claims as best-case: insulation, ceiling height, and climate all move the real number.
| Room Size | Recommended Heat Output | Typical Electrical |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 200 sq ft (bedroom, office) | ~4,000–5,000 BTU | 120V plug-in (1,500W) |
| 200–400 sq ft (living room, den) | ~5,000 BTU | 120V plug-in (1,500W) |
| 400–800 sq ft (great room, open plan) | ~8,000–9,000 BTU | 240V hardwired |
| 800–1,000 sq ft (large open space) | ~5,000 BTU infrared or 240V | 120V infrared or 240V hardwired |
A practical rule of thumb: plan for roughly 10 watts of heating capacity per square foot for supplemental warmth. A 300-square-foot living room, then, is well matched to a full 1,500-watt (5,000 BTU) unit. And remember — nearly every electric fireplace lets you run the flame effect with the heat off, so you get year-round ambiance without warming the room in summer.
The electrical question decides both your heat ceiling and your installer. 120V plug-in models are the mainstream choice: they use a standard three-prong outlet, draw up to about 12.5 amps, and require no electrician. We recommend plugging them into a dedicated outlet rather than sharing a heavily loaded circuit, since a 1,500-watt heater is a real electrical load.
240V hardwired models unlock the higher 8,000–9,000 BTU output but must be wired to a dedicated 240V circuit by a licensed electrician — there's no plug. Factor that installation cost into your budget. If you're chasing maximum heat for a large open room, it's worth it; if you mainly want ambiance plus a supplemental boost, a 120V unit keeps the project simple.
Flame quality is why electric wins on looks for many buyers, and it's improved dramatically. Better units layer LED-projected flames over a reflective ember bed, offer adjustable flame color (warm orange through cool blue and violet), and let you dim brightness and speed. Linear built-in models add a crushed-glass or driftwood media bed and a wide, low "ribbon" flame that reads as genuinely modern.
The brands we carry cover the full range. Amantii and Modern Flames specialize in wide linear and built-in units with realistic multi-color flame technology, while Dimplex is known for patented flame effects across inserts and wall-mounts. When you compare models, look at the viewing area size, ember bed detail, and flame color options — those three features separate a convincing electric fireplace from a gimmicky one.
Electric fireplaces are essentially 100% efficient at the point of use — all the electricity they draw becomes heat in your room, with nothing lost up a flue. Running a 1,500-watt unit at full heat uses 1.5 kWh per hour, which costs roughly $0.15 to $0.23 per hour at typical U.S. electricity rates. Run the flame effect alone with the heater off and you're down to just a few cents per hour, since the LEDs sip power.
Because they're zone heaters, the real savings come from heating only the room you're in and turning your central thermostat down — not from being cheaper per BTU than a furnace. Used that way, an electric fireplace is an efficient, low-maintenance comfort upgrade with no annual chimney sweeping or gas inspection.
For renters and quick upgrades: a 120V wall-mount unit. No construction, no electrician, instant flame and supplemental heat for rooms up to about 400 square feet.
For an existing masonry fireplace: an electric insert. It reuses your opening and mantel and eliminates wood or gas maintenance entirely.
For a remodel or new build: a built-in linear unit framed into a feature wall — and if you want big heat for an open great room, spec the 240V hardwired version and budget for the electrician.
Whichever route you choose, measure your space twice, match the BTU output to your square footage using the table above, and confirm your electrical supply before you order.
Ready to choose? Start with our full electric fireplaces collection, where you can filter by install type, size, and brand, or browse the broader fireplaces collection if you're still comparing electric against gas and wood-burning options. Every unit we carry ships with manufacturer specifications so you can verify heat output and dimensions before you buy, and our team is glad to help you match a model to your room. Bring the square footage and the wall measurements — we'll handle the rest.
Related reading: Electric Fireplace vs Gas Fireplace: Which Is Right for Your Home?
Free US shipping on orders over $299. Authorized dealer pricing, full manufacturer warranty, and price match against any authorized competitor. Questions on sizing or fitment? Call 917-540-6070, Mon–Fri 9am–9pm EST.
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